From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. Nov 2, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I'm wondering, what is the weight differential between your half crimp and your 3-finger drag? 3 finger drag for me. What started off as a hobby between two friends has grown into something bigger and more exciting than we ever imagined and with your support we can only go up! Three finger drag - White £24. I would never do IMR or MR grips, just MRP, RP, and IM. Loving the psyche! Sep 4, 2025 · Vary your finger positions and hold size to reduce the chance of injury. Learn five effective finger training protocols for climbers, as well as nutritional secrets for tendon health and strength gains. "Hey dude, what's up with the fingers?" Not sure if it's the tape or the injuries, but I can't really bend them. Three Finger Drag: After the half crimp, transition to the three-finger drag. Dec 14, 2018 · Several years ago whilst running a climbing wall session as part of a Single Pitch Award assessment course, I got on the wall to demo a move and pop!! Everyone in the room heard it. Once you can do all five one-handed hangs at bodyweight (without a helper sling or counterweight), you can increase the difficulty by holding a weight in the I saw a new rehab professional and have been downgraded to no pinky while climbing for the first couple of weeks. g. This includes what I learned from months Continuing middle range rep work for armlifting movements, to improve my grip strength for climbing. A final variation is the open crimp (also known as the bird-beak). The three finger drag feels so good, my fingers feel loose and warm. Learn how to do this exercise: 3-Finger Drag. Whether you love or hate climbing crimps, mastering them is key. Jul 26, 2021 · I recommend a max hang protocol using an edge that allows an open hand or 3-finger drag position (often about 20-30mm) with 4-6 rounds of 10 second holds. Enables macOS-style three-finger dragging functionality on Windows Precision touchpads. If you want to pull hard, you need strong fingers. Hanger 18 gyms are pretty meh as far as workout equipment goes. Understanding the history and benefits of no-hangs can help you make smarter training decisions—and hopefully put you on the right path to reaching your climbing goals. 5" in reach. With all of the possible finger positions, it can be difficult to discern which is best used when and why an athlete might choose one over another. How do we make our fingers strong? Jun 2, 2025 · I typically recommend about four to six sets of three reps, splitting those sets between half crimp and two-finger pocket for third lumbrical injuries and between half crimp and three finger drag for fourth lumbrical injuries. 4. 3 finger drag (or open hand) is a pretty common open hand technique since the pinky is too short. Pulley injuries are the most common finger injury in Sep 19, 2022 · 0:59:23 – Three finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. Over the course of her one-month trip, she racked up an incredible ticklist: one V14, three V13s, nine V11s (with two flashes), and three V10s (with two flashes). Five Effective Hangboard Training Protocols for Increasing Grip Strength and Endurance. For example, if you’re training for a pumpy, edgy and crimpy outdoor project, it can be hard to replicate this if your gym doesn’t have suitable boulders or routes set. Mar 10, 2023 · The number one risk factor for finger injuries is too many direction changes at variable speeds. Also sometimes three-finger drag allows you to rely more on friction rather than finger strength, allowing for more recovery. Watch ifsc lead cup, you can find a lot of of female athletes use three finger drags on 50% or more of the moves. Could train half crimp and back three drag? that puts your middle/ring in the same-ish position as a f3 drag but keeps the pinky playing. The three finger drag is the most efficient grip position because it relies on the tensile strength of the finger tendons rather than the engagement of the forearm flexor muscles. If crimps are fine but three finger drag hurts you have your culprit. Part 1: Chasing Finger Strength Feb 27, 2020 · Learn how to identify common climbing finger injuries, understand the anatomy of pulleys and find a path to recovery, by Sports Osteopath Rupert Cross How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide] Hooper's Beta 146K subscribers Subscribe ThreeFingerDragOnWindows aims to bring the macOS-style three-finger dragging functionality to Windows Precision touchpads. Hannah Toward (9 years old at the time) relies on the 3-finger drag whilst climbing Free and Even Easier 7a+ at Malham. My 3 finger drag increased extremely rapidly after I started training it and quickly surpassed my half-crimp even though I had never really used it before. Specificity 2. . Right now I'm focusing on two grip types, the three fing May 10, 2022 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. It compares the three-finger drag grip and the chisel grip, illustrating their significant mechanical differences. Grip strength is essential for bouldering and sport climbing. But look, this is very often the case: Can crimp with all 4 fingers on no pain + three finger drag (bonus points with dropping of the pinky towards palm) causes lotta pain = (at least, but not necessarily limited to) lumbrical injury (of some kind/degree). As the title says, I'm curious if it safe and possible for me to train three finger drag while i'm still recovering from a minor a2 pulley injury on my right middle finger. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. The grip involves a climber elongating their index, middle and ring finger into an open-hand (or ‘Drag’) position to hold an edge. Jul 31, 2023 · 3. Feb 11, 2021 · Finger strength is the most hotly debated topic in climbing training. Aug 25, 2025 · In this first article of our three-part series, we’ll explore how finger training evolved over time and led us to today’s no-hang methods. Results Initial test: 4-5×20 at 135 lbs with ~3-4 minutes rest between Sep 12, 2024 · THE 3 FINGER DRAG 👌 The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. I'll echo Alkis that tendon overuse injuries do wonders for encouraging your drag usage. Since quarantine started, I have begun hangboarding for the first time in my climbing career. I have started to train the three finger drag as it is a personal weakness, and I'm starting to feel a bit stronger. Nov 10, 2024 · I'm not a coach so can't really give you advice on what would improve your climbing performance but your 3 finger drag will definitely give you a better chance of staying injury free. I have to three-finger drag everything, crimps, slopers, jugs, you name it I drag it. Half crimp seemed the totally natural way to grab small edges, I had to practice 3 finger drag to give my fingers a break on longer fingery routes/problems. Around 8:54 he shows an exercise to build three-finger drag flexion (scalable with feet on the ground) I'm curious about what others think about this. Full crimp grip and 3 finger drag were not permitted. Sep 12, 2024 · Keywords: 3 finger drag climbing technique, finger strength for climbing, climbing grip types, improving climbing performance, climbing techniques for beginners, maximizing friction in climbing, ring finger strength, reducing forearm pump in climbing This is an AI-generated summary of the content, and is not intended to provide factual context. How to do 3-Finger Drag. when dropping a pinky allows you to use remaining three fingers on a bigger part of the hold. Often, it’s used on moves where elbows can stay below the hold (as this maximises friction), or on small holds that are too slopey to crimp. Be very careful and listen to your body. Half crimp grip and open hand grip were allowed without the use of the climber's thumb and chosen by personal preference. Front Two Finger Drag: Move on to the front two finger drag, using the index finger and the middle finger. In this case, back three causes a slight change in wrist angle that affects engagement of the wrist flexor and explain why this grip is stronger. Climbing on limestone is my favorite, so I figured trying to bulletproof my hands to pocket strains wasn’t a bad idea. Sep 21, 2023 · Especially strong climbers can also perform a hang or two using the three-finger drag and two-finger pocket grips. Three finger drag 3. Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr. Aug 31, 2023 · 4812 Likes, 54 Comments. Question: What are the pros/cons of training a "true" half crimp? Safer? Stronger? Or is it just variances in anatomy that don't matter "Open crimp" is a 4 finger crimp, but without hyperextension of the distal joints. Because my pinky is about 0. Open hand vs three finger drag? So for a good couple years I've just been training half crimp and 'open hand', however I've been doing 3 finger drag as my open hand. The 3 finger open hand grip feels more comfortable but weaker since there is no pinky. Most of the people I've seen with a stronger back three than front three have comparatively long middle fingers. Learn how to do this exercise: Front 2-Finger Drag. Dec 5, 2025 · The ability to drag items using a three-finger gesture is an option for trackpads that support Force Touch. Very good for sloper strength and not tough on the tendons either. ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail. Maybe that's why I crimp everything so hard. I have previously tested my 3 finger drag on a 20mm with the tindeq and noticed a large strength gap of 14kg between my hands. Next time you climb test to see if crimps are painful, then if three finger drag is painful. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. That said, I noticed that I never really used a proper drag grip when I'm actually climbing; only half crimp and open crimp. When I test the pounds of how much the individual fingers are able to pull and I compare the sum total of the index, middle and ring finger to the actual three finger drag pull force, many times the three finger drag is significantly less than the sum total of those three fingers. Sep 5, 2025 · A comprehensive treatment plan, written by a physical therapist and based on evidence-based research, to heal a climbing finger injury. 162 likes, 2 comments - c4hp on November 27, 2024: "This paper offers valuable insights into the biomechanics of various climbing grips, highlighting how grip choice affects both performance and injury risk. Holds in real climbing are very complex, and the forces you apply on them are even more complex. Aug 9, 2025 · The three-finger drag grip is a fundamental and highly efficient hand position in rock climbing, characterized by the active engagement of the index, middle, and ring fingers, maintaining a relatively open-hand position to optimize force distribution and reduce stress on individual finger joints and tendons. This exercise is also known as Three Finger Drag. This exercise is also known as Front Two Finger Drag, Two Finger Drag. Over 18’s. Compounding on that, it's pretty likely that you favor your strong grip while actually climbing, so despite the recent 7 months of stimulus, your 3 finger drag could simply be much more advanced than any of your grips utilizing 4 fingers. He had great results and became so strong with it that found after his pulley had healed he often preferred the drag while climbing. Is this your experience as well? What kind of strength differential do you see between grip types? Should I be focused on closing the strength gap between these grip types? I'm curious to hear from people who train in a more dedicated My 3 finger drag strength (F3 or B3) seems to be adequate, but I've never tested it specifically other than the occasional short repeaters phase where I try and focus on several grips. Finally, once you can hang a lot of weight in a 3-finger drag on the hangboard (when muscular failure is what’s holding you back rather than lumbrical pain), stop buddy taping and carefully incorporate the drag back into climbing. I’ve injured the lumbrical muscles in my hands on three seperate occasions due to awkward and tweaky movements on the wall that have caused my pinky finger to drop. May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now. How strong is your open-3 drag vs your half crimp? I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. 99 GBP Choose options 2,175 likes, 26 comments - michaelakiersch on September 21, 2024: "+10 lbs hanging around on the 3 finger drag today 壟 Managed 20+ seconds each side with body weight too 裡 ️‍ #dragonqueen #khakeesi #bouldering #climbing #girlswhoclimb #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #trainingforclimbing #beastmaker". In the past, my contact strength was conditioned upon latching holds with all four fingers. true I know that the three finger drag is a weak point for many climbers, but I didn't think the difference in strength would be so large. Should I train this 3 finger grip more until it is stronger and use this more? Is there any detriment to climbing without the pinky and neglecting it while training the 3 finger open hand grip? Thanks all! Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. Apr 9, 2018 · I also removed open hand (3 finger drag) from my program since finger rolls would seem to double as open hand work basically. Maybe crimping was a learned behavioural trap. 5kg. At this point, I’m reluctant to hold a two finger pocket with the middle and ring finger or really any scenario that involves my pinky dropping. Perfect your finger strength, grips, and technique to conquer new heights! #climbingcoach #climbingtips #boulderingtiktok #boulderingtraining #climbinggym”. If you want to hold small holds, you need strong fingers. Sep 27, 2024 · Learn how to improve your crimping technique, a crucial skill for boulders. Supercharged collagen. I hopped on the Kilter Board for a tester session with the 3 finger drag. I don’t train pinch because it didn’t really help me the few times I’ve tried. For the psyched climber climbing in that V5 to V8 range, you can only safely add finger stress if you correspondly decrease your total climbing volume. I've been having an issue where if I push my fingers all the way to the back, the thickness of the hangboard edge causes me to naturally want to curl the fingers closer to 90, rather than straight. It's interesting as well that this seems to be the naturally stronger grip for you. Grip type is extremely nuanced in actual climbing, while on hangboarding it is relatively one-dimensional. Climbing puts an incredible amount of strain on our finger muscles and tendons and during the first few years of your climbing journey these tendons and muscles are still adapting to deal with this added intensity. Aug 10, 2024 · If you follow climbing news, you’ve likely heard about Michaela Kiersch’s recent bouldering trip to Rocklands, South Africa. I'm gonna train up this grip, hopefully it will improve my climbing. It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. Along with point (1), long middle fingers affect the biomechanics of a 3f drag. Sep 12, 2024 · 5,901 likes, 196 comments - latticetraining on September 11, 2024: "THE 3 FINGER DRAG The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. Beginners will want to start with open positions such as this three-finger “drag,” and minimize time on the smallest holds and limit using the “full crimp,” which increases strain on the fingers. Like I said: Google it. I also immediately started using in my climbing after strengthening it, without even consciously trying to do so. It can also Nov 9, 2021 · Yes. Mar 27, 2019 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. Jun 2, 2025 · How to Fix Pain from Pocket Climbing & Three Finger Drag (Lumbrical Shift Syndrome) Hooper's Beta 140K subscribers Subscribed After recovering, I decided to start training 3 finger drag/2 finger pocket grips via a variety of hangs (mostly repeaters + density). I hadn't run into this in English-speaking climbing youtube content or anywhere here. I remember one particular video where he had a pulley injury so he specifically trained the three finger drag. Note: the acute phase will be day 0-5-7. World’s best selection of traditional bows for sale. This page has a great illustration, what they call a "sloper" I call a "4 finger drag" or "open crimp" and the 3 finger drag is not pictured. I do train the pinkie in the open position as a 2 finger pocket with the ring finger (mostly for balanced hand fitness and not so much training for real-world climbing scenario) I would also recommend training two finger drag first honestly because the weak point in your three is going to be your ring finger most likely so get that up to a decent level. I don't really relate my hangboard numbers to my climbing, except in that I simply use it to rehab or improve finger strength. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. Browse this and over 2,000 other exercises in the free Workout Trainer app for iOS and Android. Jan 19, 2021 · Whether you are hangboarding, sport climbing, board climbing or bouldering, the way that you grip a hold says a lot about your climbing. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. I was properly warmed up, the hold I was pulling on wasn’t tiny, my feet didn’t slip – but I had definitely damaged a flexor pulley in one of my fingers. I'm only trying to help you know where to start your journey. Sep 22, 2021 · Who should fingerboard? Climbers with, at least, 1-2 years of climbing experience. Search YouTube for Dave MacLeod videos on hangboarding. With a simple touchpad gesture, this app allows you to drag windows and select text (by emulating a cursor drag by holding down the left mouse button). Why are there so many grip positions? What are they? The Three-Finger Drag This is the grip position defined by Three-Finger Drag Once mastered, the 3-Finger drag will likely become a staple in your climbing, allowing you to hold onto sloped edges with maximum efficiency. Posted a video on facebook. In addition, the longer the session, the longer the recovery needs. Start doing longer, lower intensity holds like 30-45 seconds with 1-2 minute rests for like three-four reps in a session to get full tendon activation. - ClementGre/ThreeFingerDragOnWindows Feb 24, 2024 · Improve your climbing skills with these top 3 finger training exercises designed to strengthen your grip and climbing ability. TikTok video from joshisoutsidee (@joshisoutsidee): “Learn how to train for climbing a mountain and improve your bouldering skills with tips and training at Vertical Horizons Climbing Gym. On actual hard climbing I have a habit of dropping into a three finger drag, but generally only when I'm stressed, tired or absolutely at my limit so I've come to regard it as a sign that I'm probably about to fall off. Do not flirt with injury! 5. I understand training it will probably make me a more well-rounded climber strength-wise, but does anyone have evidence (quantitative or anecdotal) of the benefit of training 3-finger In this Episode I share some thoughts about a grip position that I've been using more often during bouldering, the three finger drag. Timestamps00:00 Start0:5 This video goes over my progression and reflections of learning the three finger drag one arm hang on the 20mm edge. boulders 1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing 1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. com👍 Help us create the Largest Revamp your Windows experience with an intuitive touchpad drag gesture, inspired by MacOS efficiency. Experience teaches the climber that finger strength is important. May 20, 2024 · Mastering the open-hand grip and honing your three-finger drag technique can significantly benefit your climbing performance by improving your grip strength, endurance, and overall climbing efficiency. This grip type is more passive – relying upon friction instead of brute force – as the forearm Your archery shop for all bow and arrow traditional archery supplies, archery gear, and archery equipment. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Would it be best to rest it next to the hold unengaged, or curl it downwards? Open hand, especially three finger drag, gives you a lot more friction so you don’t have to activate finger flexors that much. So yeah- 3 finger drag will help, but if you don't have the core/shoulders to press down on the slopers while moving your body around them in space it won't matter. Big improvement in my 3-finger drag personal record on the hang board; +16. Training 3 finger drag and mid 2 to avoid lumbrical injuries I've had a lumbrical injury in the past that put me off ever doing a move that used the ring finger but not the pinkie. 33 votes, 23 comments. You can't hang at all with 3 finger drag with both hands from a large hold on any hangboard (or a 3-4 finger pocket)? You can start on jugs on a vertical or overhang wall. I've always assumed three finger drag was open and have never really thought about an open crimp with four fingers. Nov 4, 2024 · I decided to run a little experiment today to see what role the individual fingers play in peak force production using the 3 finger drag grip. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at slopers because his shoulders are weak. 5" shorter than my ring finger, I would have to retract my front three fingers into an open/half crimp position for latching holds, which changed my wrist angle and cost me about 0. I have similar finger proportions, and when hangboarding I always try to keep all four fingers on. How to Fix Pain from Pocket Climbing & Three Finger Drag (Lumbrical Shift Syndrome) Why climbers get injured on pockets and 3 finger drag 1 Dislike Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. Make sure to eat well, stay hydrated, and sleep a lot. They just feel comfortable, I don't really know how to explain it. That aside, i'm wondering about the optimal placement of the pinky when it is inactive in a three finger drag position. The three-finger drag grip reduces stress on the annular pulleys by Why 3 Fingers is STRONGER than 4 for Some Climbers Hooper's Beta 131K subscribers Subscribed Aug 18, 2019 · It can be possible to place more fingers on a hold, but the hold is worse with that finger combination -- e. People who spend their time switching between The boulderbro’s want to make our mark with like-minded people. Three-finger drag queen. (Photo: Tom Randall) How Many Fingers and Arms? Sep 10, 2021 · Watched some videos on finger taping and I was in action again. Say goodbye to the conventional "tap and drag" method and embrace the seamless three-finger drag. Depending on finger morphology, a strict 4 finger open crimp may not be possible. Check them out now!. Jan 23, 2025 · If your finger hurts more than about 2/10 during or after climbing (or after a particular exercise), you’ll need to temporarily reduce the volume, intensity, frequency, or all three. Three finger drag queen. This feels slightly uncomfortable sometimes. Finger strength is the “easiest” way to progress quickly. Again, this will be done for six sets with the same time intervals - 10 seconds of hanging followed by 20 seconds of rest. Hey all, I've just started trying to train the 3 finger drag, and have always heard that 20mm is the best training edge. How to do Front 2-Finger Drag. Dec 18, 2023 · Depending on your local climbing gym set-up, however, it can sometimes be difficult to customize these on-wall exercises for strength-endurance in the fingers and forearms. May 27, 2020 · Three finger drag is a multi-touch gesture on Mac OS that simulates the click and drag gesture for selecting text, resizing windows and other things. Four finger half crimp 2.

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